Sewn: Yoked blouse

Hello! This week I’m going sheer with a yoked design that I made the pattern for 🙂

This is another style that’s been rolling around in my head for a while! I definitely have plans to make some variations of this up in my ‘nice fabric’, so I treated this as a prototype (or as people call them, a ‘wearable muslin/wearable toile’).

I got this fabric from the op shop. It’s kind of interesting fabric, and I’m not sure what it would be called (georgette?). It has a crinkled texture that forms lines along the grain. It’s sheer, but not super sheer, so I decided that I could self-line the base of the blouse to make it opaque.

Lined lower half. You can see how I understitched the lining of the armhole here.

Also, it’s polyester, which I quite hate as a fibre. On principle, my aim is to not buy any new polyester (because it’s terrible for the environment). But since this is second-hand from the op-shop (AKA the thrift store for Americans), that’s okay in my books! I’m not supporting the market for new polyester, and of course supporting second-hand shops is very worthwhile too! Although, even if you take the ethics out of it, I’m still pretty anti-polyester as I it’s not the best to wear. It’s so sweaty and gets stinky so fast, which means you need to wash it more too. Ugh! Don’t get me started on the synthetic microfibres issue either….

So the alternative name for this top is “the mauvening”.  It’s just…so mauve. I’m kind of on the fence about this colour, sometimes i think it’s ok, and then sometimes I think it’s hideous on me. So I’m planning to overdye it for fun 🙂

The finishes are french seams on the sides, and narrow bias facings for the neckline and armholes. Speaking of armholes, they are the biggest problem with this garment… I made them too low and they show my bra a little bit! (But only on one side, the side where my shoulder is lower so the armhole drops more). There’s pretty much no fixing it as of course I zealously sewed and clipped into the armholes before trying it on. And that’s why you don’t go straight to your best fabric 😉  I am raising them about 1/2 an inch for next time.

Also, for the lining of the blouse, I put the seams and darts against the body to avoid them showing through underneath the top layer (instead of having them in between the layers). But I think this was totally unnecessary to be honest; the fabric isn’t sheer enough that you’d even notice.

Oh, and what do you think of the back finish? This was my way of avoiding a tricky keyhole…It’s a simple solution, I hemmed the CB edges of the yoke and butted them together, tacking them together and sewing them into the yoke as one!

And as for the yoke, you might be thinking, Jo, why didn’t you raise the style line up to the shoulder dart tip so that you could absorb the dart into it? Well, that’s a traditional shirt style line. BUT, it’s all about the proportion! I wanted a decent chunk of sheer in the back, so I had to keep the shoulder darts. So worth it. I’m telling you, it’s ALL about the proportion 🙂 I hope that makes sense (maybe I’m talking esoterically in patternmaking terms??).

Well, if things go according to plan, hopefully I can blog the overdyed version soon! I also have a tonne of this fabric left so I will probably experiment with it more in future.

So yeah, what do you think of this style? I have lots of ideas for variations… 🙂

 

2 thoughts on “Sewn: Yoked blouse”

  1. That looks awesome!!! I love the idea of semi sheer at the top and opaque at the bottom. Aaand I so love shoulder darts like that and wish more patterns had them! Any plans of making this into a pattern to sell?

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